Saffron Encounter and the Mysterious Sage: My Journey to Kashmir

As September comes to an end, I find myself frequently reminiscing about my trip to Kashmir last year. It’s a recurring pattern for me; when a particular time of the year arrives, memories of what transpired in the previous year flood my mind. This can happen not only for the previous year but also for moments from years past. Sometimes it’s triggered by a specific weather condition, a familiar fragrance in the air, or even seemingly random moments. These memories often haunt me, resurfacing during my meditation sessions or while I take leisurely walks in the park, gazing at the moon’s gentle glow through the scattered clouds in the night sky.

My desire to visit Kashmir had long been a plan in the making. It all began when I had a vivid dream of a magnificent shrine dedicated to Hazrat Makhdoom Sahib (RA), one of the greatest saints of the valley. In my dream, I stood inside his shrine, surrounded by people engaged in a sufi dhikr, their voices harmoniously chanting a beautiful prayer. Amidst them, I noticed a man with a short white beard, a common sight among Kashmiri men. He wore an unusual expression, seemingly pretending to be mad. Yet, I couldn’t dismiss him, for an overwhelming sense of bliss and blessings radiated from him with an irresistible force. I felt compelled to embrace him, even if he were the maddest of men. I knew he wasn’t insane; it was as if the Divine spoke through him, almost against his will. As I gazed at him in my dream, enchanted by the melodious dhikr, a dark woman suddenly appeared before me. She spoke loudly and urgently, attempting to convey something to me. Who was she? I couldn’t discern, but her persistence succeeded in rousing me from my dream, back to the realm of reality, to my mundane life. I woke up, pondering the mysterious encounter.

You might wonder if I encountered this man in reality during my visit to Srinagar last year. To my disappointment, I did not cross paths with him, despite spending long hours at the shrine daily, hoping for his appearance. Was he real, or was he a product of my imagination? It’s impossible to say, as many saints prefer to remain hidden from the public eye.

This dream served as my “invitation” to Kashmir, and I’ve never regretted embarking on the journey to this beautiful valley with its unique people, cuisine, and fragrances. During my time there, mingling with the locals, exploring the mountains, and visiting ancient temples and shrines in remote locations, one aspect remained constant – a profound and enchanting silence that pervaded every corner I ventured into. Silence enveloped everything, both externally and internally, in people and animals, in the mountains and the tranquil waters of Dal Lake. The people of Kashmir carried this serene silence with them, and it was this sense of peace that resonated deeply with me. There was no trace of violence on the streets or any signs of aggression in the people I encountered. Everyone welcomed me warmly, and their kindness and hospitality made me understand why Kashmir is often referred to as “Heaven on Earth.”

And then, there was my encounter with the majesty of Saffron. It marked my first time witnessing how saffron is cultivated and experiencing the fragrance of its blossoms. The saffron flower, with its inherent strength and beauty drawn from the mountains, left an indelible impression on me. It exuded a unique potency akin to that of medicine. But I’ll delve into that in my next post…

Picture: Author (Eugene) together with renowned Kashmiri writer Mohammad Ashraf Fazili

​Exploring the Mystical and Metaphysical Qualities of Incense

When we encounter incense sticks labeled with names like “Gold” or “Silver,” it’s tempting to smile at the idea of their magical properties. However, the true essence of incense goes beyond these whimsical titles. In this discussion, I aim to delve into how incense has the power to attract and transform individuals, shedding light on the diverse range of people who find solace in its fragrant embrace.

One common misconception I’ve held, and perhaps you have too, is that incense is primarily reserved for meditators and yoga practitioners – those devoted souls who seek to enrich their sacred spaces. Recent encounters, particularly through reading an esteemed incense blog, have opened my eyes to the multitude of incense enthusiasts with varying backgrounds and interests. It’s become clear that while incense can be profoundly spiritual, it cannot instantaneously alter a person’s character. To expect such a miracle from incense would be unrealistic. Genuine transformation requires a deeper commitment to spiritual practice.

Now, let’s pivot to the brighter side of life. I’ve had the privilege of knowing incense artisans who embody spirituality in every aspect of their lives. Engaging in conversation with them is akin to an uplifting spiritual experience. For these individuals, incense is not just a business; it’s a form of creative expression that allows them to merge with the process of crafting these aromatic sticks. It’s as though they’ve found a conduit to the divine, a channel through which inspiration and guidance flow.

I take great pride in being able to offer incense created by these masters of fragrance. They may be advancing in years, but their passion remains undiminished. I pray that they continue to enjoy good health and longevity so that we can savor their aromatic creations for years to come. Interestingly, they do not sell their incense to just anyone. Prospective buyers must undergo a lengthy interview over a cup of chai, displaying a willingness to submit to their authority. They carry themselves like spiritual guides, and to purchase from them, one must adhere to their rules. There’s no phoning in an order from London or Paris and having it shipped via DHL. They insist on face-to-face interactions and spending quality time together. This is why we dedicate several months each year to travel to India, where we engage in a fruitful exchange of knowledge with these masters.

As I sit in their shops, I marvel at their creative process and the fervent discussions surrounding new fragrances. They involve their entire family in the decision-making process, occasionally soliciting my opinion. I often remark that incense has a distinct scent in the West due to differences in humidity and overall weather conditions. In India, incense must contend with a multitude of spices and aromas. After extensive testing, they introduce new incense at the local temple, closely monitoring the temple’s atmosphere for any shifts. This is a genuine experiment for them, with profound implications, as they believe. Consequently, they only present their finest offerings at the temple, sparing no expense. Once a new fragrance has passed the most rigorous spiritual test, they initiate mass production.

Picture: Author`s wife Olga at Arunachalesvara Temple in Tiruvannamalai, Tamil Nadu 

Dhuni Incense

There was an incense and there was The Incense, the only one and the best – Dhuni….

“Dhuni incense has been an intense labor of love from start to finish. As long term travelers to India we spent years scouring the heartland for incenses of all types, always coming close but never truly discovering something we felt was the real deal, an incense that would capture the very essence of a long tradition, now almost extinct in India. Finally, one unlikely day, the Eureka moment arrived. Sitting on a non descript street sipping chai we smelt the first waft of an incense that seemed too good to be true: woody, utterly pure and natural, a magical near mystical blend of oils, ground resins, fragrant botanicals and more. Instantly, we set about finding the origin and the rest…. is history.”

This is how Dhuni Incense came into existence. It enjoyed a great following in the West and received many positive reviews on Olfactory Rescue Service, the leading incense blog.

The founders of the brand, a young British couple, much like ourselves, spent a great deal of time traveling in India and trying thousands of sticks from different manufacturers. Until they found something raw, gigantic, fresh, out of the box: some Dhuni Sticks were massive and thick, with three sticks making a 15-gram packet. The incense was full of essential oils and fragrant resins, as if the person making it wanted to prove their devotion to God through each stick. The maker of the incense did not differentiate between incense making and their spiritual practice; they were absorbed into the creation of the incense, which was their prayer and meditation.

This is what founders of Dhuni were saying on their web-site in 2013: 

“Luxurious hand rolled natural incense sticks from India…

  • Blended by a legendary Indian master incense maker
  • Entirely handmade through every aspect of the process
  • No chemicals or glues of any kind
  • Sumptuous blends conveying the essence of traditional Indian agarbatti
  • Perhaps the last true artisan incense still being produced
  • Excellent customer service and shipping options
  • Quite simply the most extraordinary olfactory experience of your life

Why are you called dhuni?

The name dhuni means ‘sacred hearth’: the fireplace around which India’s holy men sit and offer plant materials to mother earth. dhuni Natural Incense is, we sincerely believe, the only place in the Western world where its possible to buy incense of this quality and, trust us, it’s almost impossible to find now in India either.

The Essence of Bhakti

These long burning joss sticks are a living tradition, the result of incredible plant knowledge, blending know-how, and artisanal skill. Conveying the essence of bhakti – devotion – these sticks convey a reverence for Mother Earth and all her creations, and to light a match to one is to recreate in miniature the sadhus fireplace, into which objects are thrown in consecration, and to purify the animate world.

Protecting an Endangered Tradition

We offer them to you with love, and with the hope that this endangered tradition find means of continuation in India. Overtaken by mass production, and a huge influx of low quality ecologically harmful imitations, the Indian agarbatti market is under threat. Traditional incense made properly is a real rarity now, and it’s our dream that Dhuni goes a small way to helping it survive. In the future we hope to do more for the protection and sustainability of this industry but for now, just buying these sticks will help.”

Dhuni started in 2010 and ended its magnificent existence in 2013. It was like a shooting star, so bright and enormous. We don’t know the reasons why the company ceased its operations but we are grateful to the founders of Dhuni for their service to humanity and a rare gift they brought to the West.