January 2006 marked my first visit to Kanpur, Uttar Pradesh, India. It was neither a business trip nor a holiday, but the beginning of the most important spiritual journey of my life — a journey to someone who would become a guiding light, whom I would visit every year for the next ten years. Those visits took place both in festive December and in the scorching heat of April or May, when temperatures rise above +40°C. The heat, though intense, is bearable due to the dry early-summer climate, while winters can be surprisingly cold and humid, with temperatures dropping to +5°C or even lower.
When I first arrived in Kanpur, I had no idea where to stay. One of the sons of my spiritual guide suggested a hotel in the city’s business district. It was clean and relatively affordable, though not cheap by Indian standards, largely because it was located next to a large market and was popular among businessmen visiting Kanpur to source leather shoes, belts, and other leather goods.
Real animal leather — yes, in India. Contrary to popular belief, not everyone is vegetarian. In fact, many are not anymore. Even those who are supposed to follow a vegetarian diet for religious reasons often make exceptions when travelling. On flights to Europe, when offered a choice between “chicken” or “vegetarian,” they almost always ask for the chicken option. By the time the flight attendants reach the back rows, there is usually no chicken left. A simple tip, then: if you like chicken, always choose a seat closer to the front!
After taking a shower in the hotel room, I ordered some delicious paneer pakoras, served with ketchup and a flask of chai. Exactly what one needs after a long and exhausting evening journey from Delhi to Kanpur. Everything seemed normal and familiar.
When I woke up the next morning, I noticed that my face and ears were burning and itching. Slowly, the itching spread over the rest of my body. I was almost certain I had contracted some serious infection. I was scared and confused — this had never happened to me before during my visits to India. I had been travelling extensively in the region since 1999, occasionally staying for very long periods.
I was advised to visit a local doctor. After waiting several hours at a private hospital to be admitted without an appointment, the doctor examined me and said I had developed an allergic reaction. He assured me everything would be fine and prescribed antihistamine medication. The doctor could not identify the cause of the allergy — and neither could I.
Days passed, filled with spiritual practice. Itching gradually became unbearable. The allergy worsened to the point where my entire body was itching intensely. I felt as if I had some contagious disease, scratching constantly, unable to find relief.
After two weeks in Kanpur, I returned to London, where I had been living since 2000. But the allergy did not disappear. After countless sleepless nights and no improvement, I finally went to the hospital in Wembley Park, desperate for help.
The doctor there — an experienced woman — asked me to show all the affected areas. She was visibly shocked by my condition. My entire body was red, inflamed, and I could not stop scratching. She told me that to stop such a severe allergic reaction she would have to prescribe steroids, which would reduce the swelling and calm the immune response.
I did not want to take steroids, but I had no choice. My life had become a nightmare. After starting the medication, the itching stopped and the swelling slowly subsided. I felt enormous relief.
At that point, I did not want to go to India ever again. I was frightened and traumatised by this experience. I had always trusted Mother India, but this time something felt deeply wrong.
Of course, I could not live without India. No chance. By April 2006, I was already booking flights to see my teacher in Kanpur again. The allergic episode felt like a thing of the past, and I was looking forward to returning to my meditations with my beloved Guru.
When I arrived in Kanpur in April 2006, I chose a different hotel — closer to my teacher and away from the busy market area. I was convinced that local dust had caused my allergy, as dust is everywhere in Kanpur. But I was wrong.
Soon after taking showers in the new hotel, the allergy returned with vengeance. My skin became red and unbearably itchy once again. This time, however, I knew the cure. I went to a local pharmacy and bought generic steroid medication similar to what I had been prescribed in the UK. The drugs worked — the symptoms subsided, though they did not disappear completely.
Because I was staying in a greener, cleaner area of the city, I began to doubt that dust was the cause. There had to be something else. I started to suspect the water.
I began researching the water supply in Kanpur and was shocked to learn that the Ganges is at its most polluted while flowing through the city. Numerous leather industries operate in the area, using chromium to process leather — the very reason why leather shoes feel so soft and comfortable.
I soon discovered that Kanpur has two types of water supply: communal water, delivered to most hotels and residential buildings, and deep ground water — cleaner and purer — accessed by properties that have drilled wells over 120 metres deep.
The solution seemed simple: I needed a place that used ground water. In practice, it was not easy. Every hotel I checked relied on communal water — a complete dead end.
After five days of searching, I was driving through the lush grounds of Kanpur Agricultural University when I noticed a small building marked “CET Hostel.” I decided to try my luck. After speaking with the staff, I was shown their water source — a deep well supplying the building with water for showers and daily use.
After lengthy discussions and even a meeting with the university’s Vice President, I was finally allowed to stay at the guest house. Once I began using ground water exclusively, my allergy slowly disappeared.
Since then, I have stayed at this guest house on every visit to Kanpur.
Now you may wonder why I titled this piece “Hidden Dangers of Recycled Temple Flower Incense.” There is a reason.
Flower waste collected from temples is washed before being dried and reused. One hopes this is done using clean water. But if temple flowers are washed on an industrial scale using communal water in India, this is deeply concerning. Heavy metals present in the water do not disappear — they remain on the flowers throughout the drying process.
Moreover, temple flowers are rarely fully organic. Many flowers sold near temples are grown using heavy pesticides to accelerate growth and improve appearance. During my stay at the Agricultural University in Kanpur, I personally witnessed seminars organised for village farmers, teaching them how to use increasingly aggressive chemicals to boost production.
This is not GMO farming — it is intensive chemical exposure.
So the next time you burn incense made from recycled temple flowers, remember my story about the water in Kanpur.
Kanpur is located in northern India, in the state of Uttar Pradesh, which is the most populous state in the country, with approximately 241 million people (2025 projections). This represents roughly 17% of India’s total population.
Recent reports from 2025 indicate that the stretch of the Ganges River flowing through Kanpur remains among the most critically polluted sections of the river. The primary sources of pollution are industrial tannery effluents and untreated municipal sewage. As of late 2025, water quality in the Kanpur stretch (from Farrukhabad to Purana Rajapur) is classified as being under significant pollution threat. Riverbed sediments show moderate to high contamination with heavy metals, particularly chromium, lead, and cadmium. Faecal coliform levels in the Uttar Pradesh stretch have also been reported as far exceeding permissible limits for bathing and drinking.
Kanpur’s more than 400 tanneries are major contributors of toxic chemicals, including hexavalent chromium, a known carcinogen. Studies published in 2025 indicate that chromium concentrations can increase up to tenfold downstream from tannery discharge points.
I am writing this not to discourage people from travelling to Uttar Pradesh, but to explain why incense produced under such environmental conditions may pose safety concerns. Not only the finished incense, but also the raw materials used in its production can be affected, as toxic chemicals from tanneries are reported to seep into groundwater and soil, contaminating local agricultural crops.
There is a significant economic and ecological divide between northern and southern India. The North is often characterised by higher population density, heavier industrial pollution, and weaker environmental controls. For this reason, we deliberately choose not to manufacture our incense in northern factories. Even when natural ingredients are used, locally sourced materials and water may still be contaminated, which is something we refuse to compromise on.
We work exclusively with factories located in southern India, a region generally regarded as cleaner, more industrially organised, and less densely populated. Local raw materials there are far less exposed to the industrial chemical pollution common in parts of the North.
While filming a short documentary about Meena Perfumery in Bangalore, we were shown the groundwater well located directly on the factory premises. This well supplies the water used in incense production. In some cases, producers in southern India even use energised temple water, valued not only for its purity but also for the spiritual vibrations created through prayer.
When purchasing incense, it is always worth paying attention to where it was made.
Happy burning!
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